Submitted by WBRi on Tue, 07/26/2011 - 08:03.
Granada was indeed a revelation, and we were really glad we had come.
You may visit a place and enjoy its architectural beauty and history,
but mixing with the people always makes for the best experiences and
by Rashmi Gowda
note: Rashmi Gowda works for a medical device company in the Pittsburgh
metropolitan area. She grew up in South India, and moved to the US to
pursue her MBA. She has been writing short stories, poems and
travelogues for her blog rushwrites.blogspot.com and also worked as co-editor for her school's weekly magazine. She can be reached at rashmi.gowda [at] gmail [dot] com.
Granada, May 4, 2011: Aric, the walking tour guide pointed us to La
Buleria, if we wanted to listen to flamenco music. The bar was owned by a
flamenco legend’s family (Paco de Lucia’s nephew’s family, but I could
be wrong), and although there were no scheduled performances, all
flamenco artists congregated there after their performances elsewhere,
and just jammed. Traditionally, this is how flamenco evolved, with
people congregating in café cantentes ortablaos, not with shows or set
pieces as it is showcased now. He suggested we go around 1 AM. We got
there around 12, a bit too early, there was hardly anyone. The bar
itself stocked only hard liquor, and there was a cave like place inside,
where about 15 chairs were set in a circle with the backs to the wall.
The walls were white, with a very uneven surface, and there were
pictures of flamenco artists on the wall. The sound system was
playing Camarón de la Isla. I asked if they could put on Orobroy by
Dorantes, a song I hadn’t heard since I got to Spain, and one that I
missed. The dark haired guy at the bar was dressed entirely in black and
said he didn’t have the song. All communication was in Spanish and
given my limited grasp of the language, involved a lot of sign language
as well. The drinks were a bit too strong for our liking. The martinis
that Neeto and Attu ordered were composed largely of vermouth, and a
little bit of gin that had to be asked for. My vodka was unwatered down
as well, as we realized much later than I could have asked for lime with
There was a couple that was already sitting when we arrived. A man in
a blue shirt, with hair tied into a pony tail, and a beautiful woman
with a camera in hand. One of the men at the bar brought in his guitar,
and played us a song strumming along with the guitar and singing in a
deep throated voice. After he was done Neeto asked if we could record a
song with our cameras, and were told we could, only for a bit. I went to
get Neeto a beer.