Mumbai,
Feb 2, 2012 (Washington Bangla Radio) February is probably the favorite
month of the year for most of us who believe in celebrating the love we
have in our lives. This year to celebrate this month, Dharma has come
up with a very unique idea to celebrate love and romance.
Calcutta, Jan 5, 2012 (Washington Bangla Radio / Penning Creations)
If you are a true-blue Bong with a typically sweet tooth and there is a
nip in the air, it must be your favorite time of the year. The scents of
‘Nolen Gur’, that delectable and delicious variety of jaggery which is
available only during the winter months (like all good things in life,
it cannot be found any time one likes!) must already have reached your
discerning nostrils. We love our ‘mishti doi’-s, ‘rosogolla’-s and
‘korapak-er sandesh’-es, but ‘nolen gur’ seems to add an extra dimension
to the range and taste (slurp!) of sweets in the city. Indeed, ‘nolen
gur’ sweets are much more than just another variety of tasty food items
gracing the plates of the discerning Bengalis in winter; they have
become intermingled with the way of our lives.
For
those of you who are not quite aware of the origins of ‘nolen gur’ (the
romanticism of which is somewhat lost in its alternative name – ‘notun
gur’), it is obtained from the sap of palm trees, which is secreted
mainly during the Bengali months of ‘Aghrahayan’ and ‘Poush’ (roughly,
from November to January). The manner in which ‘nolen gur’ is collected
and prepared has its fair share of charm, beauty and indeed, adventure
as well. Traders tie earthen pots right at the top of palm trees at
night and they are left there till morning. At the crack of dawn, the
pots, now filled with palm sap, are brought down. The collected juices
are now boiled and treated to prepare different varieties of ‘nolen
gur’. ‘Jhola gur’, the thick and sinfully sweet member of the ‘nolen’
fraternity, is created by boiling the sap for a relatively short period
of time. Boil it longer and you will get the solid and equally (if not
more!) tasty ‘Patali gur’, which, in turn, is designed into different
forms before being sold in the markets. Of course, the palm juices, in
their raw form, enjoy high customer demand levels too.
Moving on from the technical (some might even call it mundane!)
details, let us now turn our attentions to the varieties of sweets, with
‘nolen gur’ as one of their principal ingredients, that add to the
attractions of sweet shops by their gracious presence during the months
of winter. Many swear by the ‘gurer kanchagolla’-s, ‘taalshaansh’-es and
‘gurer kalakaand’-s that are available during this period. During
January, in particular, certain shops boast of having more than 50
varieties of ‘nolen gur’ sweets in their stock. How one wishes we could
taste all of them!
Customers,
however, need to be careful while buying ‘nolen gur’ products from
sweet stores. A bad tasting experience with sub-standard sweets can rob
much (nay, all!) of the charm of a person’s desired date with ‘nolen
gur’ sweets. Thankfully, there is no dearth of shops in our city, which
serve ‘nolen gur’ sweets of the finest quality.
While
stores like KC Das and Bhim Nag have taken it upon themselves to ensure
that their customers are never denied the chance to enjoy the ‘nolen
gur’ items that they so crave for, the Balaram Mullick and Radharaman Mullick store can be considered to be some sort of a pioneer as far as bringing top quality ‘nolen gur’ sweets to the markets too.
It’s all very well to purchase ‘nolen gur’ delicacies from sweet
stores, but, if you want to feel the true traditional and old-world
charm of this incredibly magical genre of edibles, you simply have to
buy the ‘nolen poira gur’ from the roaming salesmen (and ladies!), who
visit houses with clay jars, filled to the brim with the liquid variety
of this highly addictive potion. In fact, the sight of these vendors,
carrying two heavy earthen pots of ‘gur’, hanging from either end of
sticks that are carefully balanced on their shoulders, fills all Bongs
who love their sweet dishes with an intense craving to taste ‘nolen gur’
products (that too, on an ASAP basis!).
‘Nolen gur’ weaves its magic in the typical Bengali households as
well. The appearance of this brand of jaggery in the markets sparks off a
flurry of activities among the female members of practically all
Bengali families, who become busy in creating the (slurp..again!)
ethereal ‘patishapta’-s, ‘puli pithey’-s, ‘nolen gurer payesh’, ‘gokul
pithey’-s and a wide variety of other ‘nolen gur’ sweets – each of them
more tasty than the other (or so it seems, really!). ‘Narkel naru’-s
(which, when translated to English, become the extremely prosaic and
dull-sounding ‘coconut dumplings’!) are another variety of ‘nolen gur’
delicacies that have found considerable favour among us Bengalis from
the times of yore. Indeed, what is childhood if one has not tried to
steal fistfuls of these ‘naru’-s from shelves (in their own homes!) and
got caught in the process (by mothers, grandmothers, aunts and the
like)? These experiences indeed contribute a great deal in the process
via which a person grows from being a ‘resident of Kolkata’ to a ‘Bong’,
in the real sense of the term.
There are plenty in store for those who wish to try out some
non-conventional ‘nolen gur’ sweets as well. A new category of so-called
‘fusion sweets’ are generally available in shops during the winter
months, which present a heady mix of the traditional taste of ‘nolen
gur’ and other, more contemporary, ingredients and designs. Try out
‘nolen gurer rosogolla’-s or ‘nolen gurer icecreams’ and you will know
what these ‘fusion sweets’ are all about. ‘Nolen gur’-filled chocolate
sweets also deserve an honourable mention in this category.
Adding to the enormous popularity of ‘nolen gur’ products is the fact
that, this brand of jaggery is available in the markets at wholesale
prices, which are, of course, much lower than what the prices would have
been if we had to buy it from individual retailers. The consistently
high customer demand levels also help shopowners supply delicious ‘nolen
gur’ sweets to buyers at relatively low prices. I have a sneaking
suspicion, though, that even if the prices of ‘nolen gur’ were slightly
higher, that would have, in no way, diminished the attractions of these
delicacies in the eyes of the average Bengalis, who are known for their
love for tasty sweets.
Christmas has come and gone and we have had our fair share of yummy
cakes. New year celebrations are also done and dusted and we have
indulged our taste buds on that occasion as well. But hey, don’t these
cakes, tutti-fruttis and western-style desserts pale into relative
insignificance when we detect that unmistakable golden brownish tinge of
‘nolen gur’ in the sweets, ‘pithey’-s and ‘puli’-s that are presented
in front of us by our loving mothers and grandmothers (sorry to all
guys, but you do not even come close to matching your better halves in
preparing these traditional Bengali sweets!)? After all, even literary
stalwarts like Sukumar Ray have proclaimed, ages ago, that, while there
are many tasty items available to us Bongs, the fact remains: ‘Kintu
shobar chaite bhalo/Pauruti aar jhola gur’!
Phew! All this
writing about delicious ‘nolen gur’ items has made me hungry again. Let
me raid the refrigerator and hopefully I’ll find a bowl of sumptuous,
finger-licking ‘notun gurer payesh’, made by my mom (who else?). Pray
for me...
Ikra or the Russian caviar is culled from the sturgeon as it moves to fresh water to spawn in adjoining rivers, from its habitat in the Caspian Sea. The most prized ikra are Beluga, Ossietra, and Sevruga, in descending order of quality — and demand! Not surprisingly, it’s also fabulously expensive as the best caviar is from sturgeon in the Caspian Sea.
Fajita resembles our very own ‘Calcutta roll’ but not wrapped so meticulously. The combined dish of Texas and Mexico also means ‘a little strap.’ The history of Fajita is a little inhuman;
A few weeks back I was watching Satyajit Ray’s film Shatranj ki Khiladi and quite enjoying the fact that the nawabs had so much time to laze around and gorge on some exotic nawabi khaana. Well, I was certainly thinking of Wajid Ali Shah who was known to be foodie. When he came to Calcutta, it is known that he brought all his chefs and cooks to supply him his daily dose of food glorious food.
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